Monuments, Markets and Skyscrapers too - Delhi, India
“India!… The land of dreams and romance, of fabulous wealth and fabulous poverty, of splendor and rags, of palaces and hovels, … the country of hundred nations and a hundred tongues, of a thousand religions and two million gods, cradle of the human race, birthplace of human speech, mother of history, grandmother of legend, great-grandmother of traditions, “–Mark Twain
With a rich history, intriguing culture, diverse religions, crumbling ruins, lively streets, crowded yet colorful markets, mouth-watering food, warm locals, and a host of childhood memories Delhi has a lot to offer.
When I found myself here over a weekend during a business trip, I decided to keep with the wandering Veena tradition and spend a Sunday renewing my acquaintance with Delhi and making new memories.
Perhaps It’s an age thing or perhaps it was the playing tourist and being in areas like the Red Fort, Chandni Chowk and Old Delhi that brought memories bubbling out of the mists of time as I recalled the excitement of seeing the red fort from the train knowing that our Summer vacation was about to begin. We would chatter about which cousins were in residence as we headed towards my grandparents home in a horse drawn carriage.
Delhi has so many facets - the historical Delhi with its distinctly red sandstone Mughal architecture which survives in reasonably good condition even today. Colonial Delhi with the imprint that the British left after a 100 years of rule. Diplomatic row lined with the beautiful embassies of the countries from around the world. Raj Path which is the political center of the power that rules India. Cyber Delhi with it’s modern buildings and who's who of fortune 500 companies that outsource to India.
Qutub Minar, a 237 foot victory tower in Delhi, India has the distinction of being the tallest brick tower in the world. It is also the oldest tower of it’s kind in the Indian sub-continent. Designated a UNESCO World Heritage site it is one of the most visited attractions in Delhi as evidenced by the crowd of people wandering through the complex when I visited on a bright and beautiful Sunday morning.
Constructed by Hindu laborers overseen by Muslim architects using local materials it is an example of the early fusion of Hindu Muslim styles.
To my amusement an older gentleman approached me during my wandering and requested for a posed picture with his wife. Hmm first time that’s happened to me? Did I look mysteriously famous? Anyhow they were a nice couple visiting from Mumbai.
While the tower itself is the most impressive part of the complex, the total enclosure is large and consists of many buildings most of which are in ruins.
There is a rectangular courtyard enclosed by cloisters, erected with the carved columns of 27 Hindu and Jain temples which were demolished by Qutub-ud-din-Aibak as recorded in his inscription on the main Eastern entrance.
A red sandstone Taj Mahal? This was the first garden tomb designed in the Persian style with fountains and beautiful gardens and perhaps served as the inspiration for the beautiful marble tomb that was destined to become one of the wonders of the world.
As a contrast to the pure white exterior dome, rest of the building is made up of red sandstone, with white and black marble and yellow sandstone detailing, to relieve the monotony. While the tomb has remained relatively intact throughout history the gardens and fountains have been destroyed and restored many times in their lifetime.
Leaving the historic monuments behind we made our way to central Delhi, and the seat of political power in the city.
The India Gate (formerly known as the All India War Memorial) is a war memorial located astride the Raj path on the Eastern edge of the ceremonial axis of New Delhi. It stands as a memorial to 90,000 soldiers of the British Indian army who died between 1914 and 1921 in he First World War. Designed by Sir Edwin Lutyens, the gate evokes the architectural style of the triumphal arch such as the Arch of Constantine, in Rome, or the Arc De Triomphe in Paris.
Following the Bangladesh Liberation war in 1972, a structure consisting of a black marble plinth with a reversed rifle, capped by a war helmet and bounded by four eternal flames, was built beneath the archway. This structure, called Amar Jawan Jyoti (Flame of the Immortal Soldier), has since 1971 served as India's tomb of the unknown soldier.
Unfortunately most of the area was closed off by police barriers and construction scaffolding.
The Jama Masjid is one of the largest and most iconic mosques in Delhi. Built between 1650 and 1656 it served as the imperial mosque of the Mughal emperors until the demise of the empire in 1857. It remains in active use even today.
Gurdwara Sis Ganj is one of nine historical Sikh Gurdwaras in Delhi. it marks the site where the ninth Sikh Guru was beheaded on the orders of the Mughal emperor Aurangzeb on 11 November 1675. The Sikh regiment of the Indian army salute the SIS Ganj Gurudwara after saluting the president of India since 1979, the only instance of saluting twice in the Republic Day parade by a regiment of Indian army.
As a child we came here to pay our respects every year when we were visiting my grandparents. Then this area became over crowded and almost impossible to visit so it was almost after 20 plus years that I found myself once again at the doors of this Gurdwara.
The impressive Raj Path or Kingsway is a broad thoroughfare which is the heart beat of political India with it’s impressive Secretariat, Parliament house and other important government buildings lining the street.
The Bahai Lotus temple where people of all faiths are welcome. The temple itself was still closed to the public but I managed to peek my face between a fence to catch this beautiful glimpse.
The Central Cottage Emporium located on Janpath provides a window to the rich heritage of textiles and handicrafts produced by local artisans from the various regions of India.
The wholesale Spice Market where the wonderful smell of spices teases your nose.
Connaught Place is a major shopping, nightlife and tourist destination in Delhi. Designed by Lutyens it serves as a key financial, commercial and business destination.
Janpath Market is one of the most famous markets for tourists (both Indian and foreign) in New Delhi. The market essentially is a long line of boutique stores selling products which are hard to find in the malls and multi-chain stores of the city. The long line of boutiques is for budget travelers and shoppers, buyers of handicrafts and garments, curio and numerous Indian-style fast-food places.
The street used to be lined with stalls and sellers but many have not returned post COVID and many stores remain closed.
Gurgaon Cyber City, a key hub for outsourcing in the world is full of household names and modern buildings that would be home anywhere in the world.
I wouldn’t be wandering in Delhi, India if it were not for the SAVI GROUP whose business brought me here at this time on this trip.