The Grand Tetons - At The Start Of My American Parks Odyssey
“It is safe to say that the Teton Range is as breathtaking as any mountain landscape one could ever see.” - Stefanie Payne, A Year in the National Parks
Earlier this year I had been looking at ways to integrate my desire to explore a train journey with seeing more of this country that has been my home for the last forty plus years. The original trip fell through but instead I decided to sign up for a guided tour of some of the major American parks that included the Grand Tetons, Yellowstone, Custer National Park, and a lot of places in between that I have visited only through books, television and movies.
Since this has been a busy season for the National Parks, my adventure began at the very tail end of the season. In fact as we passed through many places they were shutting down for the season behind us. To do justice to all that I saw and experienced in this great odyssey I will bring you my trip in sections so you can wander with me and refresh your memories or make new dreams and memories.
My starting point was Grand Teton National Park and Jackson Hole Wyoming. At approximately 310,000 acres, the park includes the major peaks of the 40-mile-long Teton Range as well as most of the northern sections of the valley known as Jackson Hole. Grand Teton National Park is only 10 miles south of Yellowstone National Park, to which it is connected by the National Park Service–managed John D. Rockefeller Jr. Memorial Parkway.
Right from the moment I landed at the Jackson Hole, Wyoming airport I knew I was in for an experience of a lifetime having left California far far behind.
The soaring mountains, the antler arch, the bronze statues of cowboys and moose should give you a clue what I’m talking about.
Once I checked into my hotel I made my way to the town center to experience the legendary Elk Arches. Imagine my disappointment that they looked exactly like the arch I had walked under when I entered the airport terminal. I guess they’ve become quite the signature here in Jackson. The main square of course has them at the 4 corners of the park that is at the center of the downtown area.
Not too many people were around at 4:00 P.M. when I found myself here. The downtown area is mostly shops, restaurants and art galleries. I browsed through some of the shops, took some pictures and settled for a scoop of homemade huckleberry ice-cream to take the edge of having missed my lunch but saving room for dinner.
Cowboys definitely dominate. The Veteran’s Monument in the center of the town square.
The Million Dollar Cowboy bar with it’s bar stools shaped like saddles and a reputation for attracting celebrities and offering a rollicking good time. Some of the folks from my group tour went later in the evening and said they could not get in because of the line that stretched out the door and along the sidewalk.
Early morning found us on the road to the Grand Tetons National Park. On the way we spotted some pronghorns and elk in the distance. It’s been a dry winter so far though there was definitely snow on the mountain peaks, but the snake river’s water level was low and rafting was out.
Instead we made our way to this old wooden chapel built in the early 1900s.
The Chapel Of the Transfiguration is known for its wide glass window behind the altar that brings in the view of the mountains for the worshippers. Imagine raising your eyes to heaven in prayer and seeing this beautiful vista.
Onward to Jenny Lake where we were blessed with beautiful sunshine and a placid lake surface that reflected the view of the mountains. Clearly we were not the only ones enjoying a beautiful morning at the lake.
Jackson Lake and the Jackson lodge for a lunch stop. We’re at the tail end of the season and the restaurant was not open thanks to COVID but we were able to place to go orders and at the advice of the gentleman manning the lunch orders I took my lunch and found a place at the bar with it’s breath taking view of the mountains and beautifully embellished bar.
Huckleberries were on my mind so I indulged in a huckleberry margarita to accompany my lunch before we set off to explore Yellowstone with its geysers and waterfalls and other wonderous things. Please stand by for the post on Yellowstone, a dream come true for me.