Remarkable Fez, Morocco
Birds eye view of the Fes Medina
“I love Morocco – it’s a real challenge to all five senses. You think you know something, and you don’t. It’s wonderful. It keeps you on your toes that way.”— Amy Ryan
Fez, the second largest city in Morocco has a rich and diverse history. Once the capital of Morocco it is still widely viewed as the cultural epicenter of the country. Home to the oldest and largest medina in North Africa, designated by UNESCO as a world heritage qualifies it as the shopping destination in Morocco.
We arrived as the light was fading and the shadows were lengthening. Collecting our belongings from the bus we made our way to the nearest entrance to the Medina and the riad where we were scheduled to stay two days. An army of porters streamed past us to collect our suitcases and transport them to the riad for us. I had to wince at the sound of the wheels on the stone surfaces.
We were greeted with the traditional hot mint tea and almond cookies as we milled around the lobby and garden to collect our old-fashioned keys and make our way to our rooms where we were greeted by rose petals in the bathrooms. People milled around exploring our surroundings as we waited for our luggage and dinner that was served in the riad that night.
Built in 789 A.D., the ancient walled city is one of the oldest in the world. Refugees from Cordoba and later Tunisia shaped it into what it is today. In 1981 UNESCO declared it a world heritage site.
Jews escaping from Andalusia were welcomed to Fez and played a pivotal role in the development of the city. A thriving Jewish quarter was established here but as the importance of Fez declined, the Jewish population was also decimated. This cemetery is all that is left of the once thriving Jewish quarter here in Fez.
The Moses Maimonides was one of the famous inhabitants who made his way here from Andalusia. Unfortunately, this too was not destined to be his forever home since he was forced to leave Fez when the terror was at its height and ultimately made his way to Egypt.
Part of what I love about wandering around the world is these little tidbits and piecing together stories across different parts of the world. I was first introduced to Maimonides in Cordoba where there is a large statue of him in the Jewish quarter there.
The Jewish quarter was established in close proximity to the Royal Palace as a show of protection by the then Sultan. So, it was simply a matter of walking across the street to admire these bronze doors that grace the palace.
They are an awesome sight set in blue tiled arches and separated by these white arched alcoves with inscriptions on them.
Most of the gates to the Medina that we saw were elaborately tiled and a sight to behold but out of a total of 13 gates that provide entrance to the old city of Fez are simpler ones like this which was originally designated for use by the tradespeople. This one is the Gate of the Farriers.
One of the most ornate is the Azure (Blue) Gate or the Bab Bou Jeloud. Decorated with beautiful blue tiles, it looks into the Medina which has buildings also crowned with blue tiles to keep up with the aesthetics.
Just inside the entrance was a juice vendor serving freshly squeezed juice and we lost our entire group as they swarmed the juice vendor even though we had just had breakfast a short time ago.
We approached the blue gate through the Medina and were fascinated that the inside looking out is tiled in green tiles and not blue. These green tiles coordinate with the rooftop of the green mosque that is located just outside the city walls.
I couldn’t find out why this contrast of colors and coordination but am fascinated with the level of planning those long-ago architects did.
All over Morocco the people were friendly and welcoming and especially with the young ones like these were fascinated by us American tourists.
These young ladies wanted to take pictures with us but since the pictures were on our phones and cameras, I guess it was just the thrill of being in a picture and a story to tell that was the goal for them because they don’t have a picture to go with it.
One of the many entrances to the Medina. I elected to separate myself from the group since I was not keen on spending an entire day shopping so assigned a guide, I made my way into the medina through this gate called the Bab Rcif and traversed a short cut through the narrow souks and past a few important landmarks in the Medina before making my way back to our riad.
The River Fez which at one time divided the original Medina into two was covered up when the two were joined again. Our guide pointed out the carpet shop where the rest of the group was scheduled to visit later and as it turned out many would purchase rugs.
While the short cut to the riad was a bit longer than I thought, I resisted all attempts to enter shops pointed out by my guide and focused on enjoying and appreciating the many interesting buildings and sights along the way.
University Al Qarawiyyin is one of the leading spiritual and educational centers of the Muslim world and is considered the oldest continuously operating institution of higher learning. It focuses its studies on Islam, legal sciences, and classical Arabic. Since I had so recently visited Kairouan in Tunisia I stuck my head in through these ornate doors fascinated with the flow of ideas and information across North Africa.
Even though at the time I was a bit irritated at the long winding way we made our way to the riad, in retrospect I can’t help but appreciate some of the sights that I saw along the way.
Finally, I arrived back home and made my way to the rooftop to enjoy the sunshine and getting the weight of my leg. The only thing I was sorry to miss was the leather tanning area which is one of the things that Fez is famous for. Ah well who knows my steps might make their way this way again someday.
As someone remarked the outside of the homes as viewed from the narrow winding streets of the Medina look like blank walls the insides are a different story with beautiful fountains, fruit trees and gardens.
After lazing in the sun on the rooftop I made my way to the garden for a fabulous lunch of Moroccan salads and pancakes to the sound of the tinkling fountain. What a fabulous time out from all the frantic travel and sightseeing.
Then it was time for a home hosted dinner and a meet up with our hostess Ayesha and her sister.
It’s fascinating to learn that Ayesha found this way to maintain her ancestral home, stay at home and raise her children while being an ambassador to the Moroccan way of life to tourists.
I was reminded of another enterprising woman and the Breadbasket in Jordan with its all-woman run kitchen. It is fascinating that women can find a way to work within their traditions and restrictions and still be entrepreneurial.