Peru’s Floating Islands ~ A Step Back In Time
“Have the courage to wander a little, The best adventures are had when you step off the beaten path”
Legend has it that the Uros people have existed on this earth from before the sun, when the earth was still dark and cold. Living in their modest reed huts on man made islands in beautiful Lake Titicaca they have outlived the mighty Incas with their stone temples and edifices.
Protected within the Bay of Puno the floating islands as they are called are home to 2000 or so Uros who claim to have "black blood" that makes them immune to the cold. They call themselves kot-suña, or people of the lake, and consider themselves the owners of the lake and its waters. They continue living by fishing, weaving and now, tourism.
A visit to the islands and the people is an experience not to be missed if you are in Peru and you are okay with the altitude. Life for these people who still live in the traditional way is hard though tourism is fast becoming a significant part of the economy. I have heard some people even say that it’s very touristy? If nothing else think of this as a live enactment of a culture and history that has existed for centuries.
I have not traveled every where but I feel that these islands and the life style of these people is definitely something unique. As younger people go to school and universities many of them are choosing to live on the mainland and this way of life may well disappear someday in the future.
Our morning started with breakfast in the hotel dining room with its windows looking out on the private dock where the boat was waiting to take us on our day’s adventures on Lake Titicaca.
Located approximately 12,000 feet above sea level the lake is the highest navigable freshwater lake in the world located high in the Andes mountains bordering Bolivia. It was considered sacred by the Incas who considered it the “birthplace of the sun” due to the deep azure color which is a reflection of the sky.
The lake abounds with the cattail like “Totora” reeds that these indigenous tribes use to create their dwellings, boats and the very land on which they live.
As you traverse the lake the vista opens up to these islands that are dotted close together. There are approximately 40 of them, the count of which can grow and shrink as needed.
The local guides have a system by which they ensure that tourist dollars get to every family equitably by creating schedules of who gets a visit when.
These people live in modest homes, with cooking fires that are built on a layer of stone to keep the ground under their feet safe from fires. Between the blue waters and the bright colors of the women’s dresses the sights are indelibly burned in my memories.
The tortora reeds are lashed together to make these lightweight boats of many shapes and sizes called “Balsa”. Many of the larger boats often have an animal face or shape. After spending some time on the island some of us hopped onto the boat moored at the island for a ride to the central island of Isla de los Uros. Some of our group really got into the swing of things and actually rowed the boat.
The children from the island decided that they wanted to stick with us and came on board as well. Apparently the children all swim like fish by the time they turn 2.
Be careful when you step out of the boat since it feels like you are walking on something that is moving. I don’t have the best sense of balance and was afraid as I walked but fortunately I did not fall. Some of the people in our group commented that it felt like walking on a waterbed.
We were introduced to the families that lived on the island that we visited. A little two year old girl quickly made friends amongst the group, interchangeably using all our laps as a her chair while the guide told us the history of the people and how the islands are constructed.
Using miniature models our guide explained how the islands are made using soil and totora reeds that are dried and layered in a criss-cross pattern. The top layer rots and must be regularly replaced. Each island can survive about 10 years before it needs to be replaced. The society is matriarchal and approximately 3 to 10 families live together although families may “cut off” and relocate to other islands or “join” two islands together as the need arises.
The islands change in size, and more are created as the need arises.
While there are schools for the children and solar powered energy the people use the barter system for goods and services. We had some interesting experiences with role play during the demonstration phase of the visit.
The surface of the islands is uneven, thin, and if you’re not careful your foot can go through a thin spot and end up in the frigid waters of the lake. Fortunately that is not an experience that anyone in our group got to experience.
The dense roots of the totora reeds support the top layer that rots and must be replaced regularly. These islands require constant maintenance to last approximately 30 years or so. We were lucky that our island family took good care of their island and we were saved from any mishaps.
We were free to wander around the island and poke into how these people live exploring their homes and facilities; outdoor stoves that are made from stones to protect the reeds from fire very reminiscent of rural India. The roofs are waterproofed but that does not protect from humidity though with solar power people now have power for televisions etc. though we did not see any or any type of cooling equipment.
Tourism is one of the mainstays of these people. They spend their spare time making “tchotchkes'“ using the reeds or weaving for tourists to purchase. The islanders are great sales people and our group definitely spent some tourist dollars here. All for a good cause.
This visit was one of our highlights of our trip to Peru even with visiting the famed Machu Picchu.
Perhaps the whole thing is a tourist trap but never the less it was a fun day learning how these indigenous people have lived on the lake and even survived the mighty Incas.
I made a personalized magnet for my fridge using one of the popular phot apps from the picture that our guide snapped as we posted in front of the sign. A worth souvenir of my visit.