Cape Breton Island -The Maritimes
“In the Aboriginal tradition, rivers are seen as the glue, the highway, the linkage between people, not the separation. And that’s the history of Canada: our rivers and lakes were our highways.” – John Ralston Saul
Cape Breton Island was populated by the Mi’kmaq tribe until European settlers arrived in the 1400s. Giovanni Caboto (John Cabot) is credited as being the first European to visit Canada hence the famous Cabot Trail on Cape Breton being named for him.
The French might have settled here first, but the Acadians as they were known left these shores when a treaty between France and Britain ceded these lands to Britain. Then came the Scots chased from their country due to the highland clearances.
With its green rolling hills, morning mist and various bays and inlets the land was very similar to the native Highlands that these people had left behind. We were to spend two days exploring the highlights of this island. In fact, they made such an impact here that Gaelic was the first language for the Cape Bretoners until the 20th century.
Alexander Graham Bell established his research laboratories in Baddeck on the shores of the Bas D’Or lake. We made our way directly to the museum managed by Parks Canada and spent some time expanding our knowledge of all that Mr. Bell invented beyond the telephone.
Tired of being cooped up in the bus all afternoon, I wandered out of the museum and made my way to the beautiful overlook with its outstanding view of the lake viewed through a frame of colorful flowers swaying in the breeze.
Alexander Graham Bell, best known for his invention of the telephone, revolutionized communication as we know it. His interest in sound technology was deep-rooted and personal, as both his wife and mother were deaf. Helen Keller was a friend and in fact she visited here. Mr. Bell is well known as the architect that launched Ma Bell the telephone company that dominated communication across North America for so many years.
What I learned here in Baddeck was that Mr. Bell’s interests and inventions ranged far beyond the telephone. He experimented with hydrofoil and aerial technologies here in Baddeck and his efforts resulted in the first powered flight right here off the ice-covered waters of the Bras d’Or Lake.
It’s interesting to see the testimonial to the aerial technologies in the kites that are flown by families and children outside the museum in the garden that surrounds it.
Our hotel in Baddeck or should I say Inn sat on a hill across the street from the lake with its interesting European or perhaps it was meant to be French since it had a French name overlooking the lake.
The Bras d’Or Lake dominates the town of Baddeck. The lake with its navigable open channels to the ocean which brings in salt water with the tide and various rivers that flow into it give it a brackish flavor or should I say a little bit of sweet and a little bit of salt creating an interesting habitat for fauna and flora.
It was inevitable that we take a cruise around the lake and look at the beautiful lake front houses, a lot of property owned by Alexander Graham Bell and his descendants even to today and look for Eagles nest and listen to tales of the Scottish Ship Hector which met its fate on the rocks of Cape Breton.
The boat crew has eagles trained on command, with food as bait so we all got to see and take some pictures of Eagles. Yay, token wildlife if you were sitting on the right side of the boat. One of the ladies captured a fantastic picture of an eagle swooping down to capture the food that she had to share with everyone on the tour the next day.
Morning as mostly on this tour was marked by fog and drizzle. Bales of hay lay on the grass ready for use in the winter months just like it is all over Europe. The architecture of the houses as they emerged from the mist was interesting with a deeply sloping back roof and a woodshed nestled to the back as though protecting the house against the elements.
This area is famous for the Las Suetes, those gale-like high winds that range from 90 to 200 km/h. This architecture protects the roofs from being blown off. it is so interesting how each area and architecture adapts to nature in its own unique way.
This area is also home to many hookers, no, no, not the kind that troll the street corners but the kind that use a hook and yarn to do craft work. In the rest stop that we stopped at there were many fine examples of the art on display and sale.
The beautiful gothic stone St. Pierre Catholic Church in Cheticamp is a testament to a local priest’s vision about what his flock needed in this area. With its beautiful tall facade, beautiful nave and rose window the church rivals many churches around the world.
The stone to build this massive edifice was dragged by volunteers across the frozen ice of the nearby harbor.
We skipped the first lookout on the Cabot trail because the fog was so thick there was nothing to see. We stopped at this one as the fog showed signs of thinning to admire the ocean view and gaze at the twisting turns of the trail as it wound its way along the shore.
As always when I drive along coastal highways in other parts of the world, I am reminded of the beauty of the Pacific Coast Highway near me.
A nature walk along the naturally occurring bog. Carnivorous plants with their pitchers looking to capture insects, tamarack and other local fauna emerged from the thick fog at times looking positively ghostly.
Apparently, the last time our guide came this way, her group was serenaded by frogs but alas there was no serenade for us. but the walk was a nice pick me up after sitting in the bus for a while.
As the day advanced the sun broke through and we got some fantastic views of the coast.
Every day during the tour, Lisa our tour guide gave us treats throughout the day. Today as we pulled into the parking lot for Ingonish Beach she broke out a maple Liqueur called what else: Cabot Trail. Yum.
After our iced drink we made our way across the pebbles to the sand where many families were enjoying the sun, surf and sand. The beautiful, impressive Keltic Lodge provided a beautiful background.
What a fabulous day it turned out to be as we made our way back towards Baddeck and our hotel.
These types of lakes and shallow water ways provide a wonderful habitat for moose but unfortunately, we were not destined to see any as we headed out from Baddeck across the Canso Causeway one last time heading towards the Prince Edward Island ferry.
Fortunately, we made it to the Ferry Landing in time to see the giant ferry coming in to dock and to watch it unload all the cars and trucks that had been housed in its belly.
Soon we were loaded on and made our way to the passenger decks where we could hand out and watch the water, a few birds and boats as we made the crossing.
On a random note, I have to note that I really admire the Indian women I encounter almost everywhere I travel proudly clad in their sarees and tennis shoes on their feet as they venture out with their children and grandchildren. Such was the case on the ferry as well.
While much of the ferry ride was on open sea and not much to see as we began to head towards landfall in PEI we could see the lighthouses emerge.
Two days on the beautiful pastoral Prince Edward Island, what a treat. If I manage to make my way back to this part of the world I would like to come and stay here for a week and explore this beautiful island.