Below the Wind and Above the Water ~ The Orkney Islands

“Everyone knew that all islands were worlds unto themselves, that to come to an island was to come to another world.” – Guy Gavriel Kay

No where is this statement more true than during a visit to the Orkney Islands, one of my favorite destinations on my recent Scotland Discovery trip. We left our hotel on a grey and dreary morning with some light misting but by the time the ferry made its way over to the Orkney Islands the sun was starting to peep through the clouds and gave us the most perfect day possible.

With its spectacular scenery, it’s diverse and interesting history this was a day to remember.

We started out from John O Groats which is the most Northerly point of hte British Isles. John was Dutchman who moved to this part of the world with his brothers from Holland and started the first ferry from the Scotland mainland to the Orkney Islands.

The Octagonal house is a landmark in the region, designed to give each brother equality and prevent a quarrel for precedence. I don’t know that we all can design homes that mimic this but definitely this house is a lesson as well as a landmark.

Of course you have to take a picture under this signpost indicating the different major landmarks of the world and how far they are from this spot.

This was originally established by a photography company as a way of making company but eventually was made publicly accessible and free to all.

I knew we were going to take the ferry across but I was puzzled at how we would traverse between the various islands or if we would stay on one island but as it turns out the Churchill Barriers erected during World War II serve the vital role of connecting most of the major islands in this chain.

Born from a time of conflict but now serving as vital links between island communities, these remarkable structures have become as iconic as many of Orkney’s more ancient landmarks.

The Italian Chapel is a highly ornate Catholic chapel built by Italian prisoners of war from limited materials that the prisoners had at their disposal while they were constructing the Churchill Barriers.

It comprises of two Nissen huts joined end-to-end. The interior was then covered by plasterboard and the altar rail was constructed from concrete left over from the work from the barrier. It is a remarkable piece of art and worship.

The Ring of Brodgar is a set of ritual monuments built over 5000 years ago. It consists of a massive stone circle that according to one historian looks like a group of druids.

It’s easy to see why Orkney’s Neolithic inhabitants might have set up a ceremonial circle on this spot – surrounded by hills and lochs, the site has a truly spectacular setting.

The swans on this loch fit in well with the overall atmosphere that had been generated while driving around the islands.

Skara Brae, one of the most perfectly preserved Stone Age villages in Europe. Carbon dating established that the settlement was inhabited from about 3200 to 2200 BC.

What I found particularly moving about the settlement is the path that takes you from the visitor center. There are stone markers on the path with a world event and a date inscribed on it. As you walk down the path it suddenly dawns on you that you are walking backwards in time and into history until you reach the year 2000 BC. What a perfect way to set the mood and get one ready to explore the settlement.

St Magnus Cathedral dominates the skyline of Kirkwall the major town of this island chain and one of the most northerly cathedrals in the United Kingdom.

It is still an active parish church but the interior is a fine example of Romanesque architecture.

AS you enter the church you are dazzled by the high ceilings, stained glass windows and the parquet floors.

Another glimpse of the interior. I know I keep saying I want to spend as much time in drinking coffee at a sidewalk café and people watch and not visit more churches and museums but I just keep coming across unique and splendid ones that call me in and I can’t resist sharing.

What a day. I know we lucked out with the weather and I might have been telling a different story if the day had turned out dark and gloomy.