Ar aghaidh go Baile Átha Cliath
“I went to Cork, Ireland, and stood on the dock some of my ancestors had left from. I felt their ghosts gather around me, and I cried to imagine what it must have felt like – leaving that beautiful land and those beloved people, knowing it was forever.” – Luanne Rice
Killarney was that perfect combination of laid-back small town with all the amenities that you would wish to have. If I go back to Ireland, Killarney will definitely be one of the places I’d like to revisit.
After a wonderful two days based in Killarney where we got to explore the natural scenic beauty of county Kerry, the cultural roots of Gaelic Ireland expressed through stories, song and dance, as well tend to some practical things like laundry etc., we were ready to move along the last leg of our journey towards Dublin.
People talk about the gloom of Irish weather, but we were blessed with more sunshine than rain. So it was on a bright sunshiny morning that we set off towards Blarney and arrived in time to beat the other tourist buses to enjoy the beautiful gardens and of course make our way to kiss the stone of eloquence. The usual mid-morning tea and scone was just an added bonus.
I’m told that typically there’s barely room to move when heading up to the top of the castle towards the stone, but since most of the tour buses were not there yet, we got to explore the castle and its environs in relative peace.
The stone itself is located at the top of the castle and is not easy to access. There are about a hundred plus steps but given how crowded it typically it is the progress is slow and you can get to the top without huffing and puffing. The actual kissing experience is also uncomfortable and difficult. You have to be helped to lean over on your back and hang and get your lips to the stone.
Kissing that stone where so many lips have touched, ew! let alone all these new fears of Covid? I think I have enough eloquence, so I decided that this endeavor was a hard pass for me but loved the stories and squabbles of the couples that made it there. Someone failed to click at that strategic moment, another took the picture with the wrong camera. It was a wonderful stop regardless of everyone’s activities.
For those like me who are not interested in kissing the stone, not to worry, there’s a lot to see and explore in the castle grounds plus there’s always the cafe for a snack and people watching.
If you have kissed the stone, pray do tell how it’s changed you? are you more articulate and eloquent now? won any great arguments? love to hear from you.
Cork the second largest city in Ireland and a major port to boot was our resting place for the night. Founded in the 6th century originally as a monastic settlement by Saint Finbarr it was later urbanized in 915 when Viking settlers founded a trading port here. A symbiotic relationship developed between the monastery and the Vikings which allowed the city to grow in size and importance.
For much of the Middle Ages, Cork was a walled city, an outpost of Old English culture in the midst of a predominantly hostile Gaelic countryside and paid “Black Rent” to keep the hostiles from attacking the city. With its colorful streets and bustling shops and pubs I loved the city and wished we could have spent more time exploring here.
If your ancestors were Irish, the chance are that they left Ireland from the port of Cobh or Queenstown as it was once known. The story of mass emigration from Ireland is told in The Queenstown Story a gripping exhibition housed in the Old Victorian Train Station through which huge numbers of emigrants passed. From 1815 t 1970 more than 3 million people boarded ships here heading for new lives in North America.
Outside the Heritage Center overlooking the harbor is this statue of Annie Moore and her two brothers. Annie was the first emigrant to be processed through Ellis Island in the US when it first opened in 1892. I have not seen this, but it is said that there is a similar statue of Annie at Ellis Island.
Cobh was the last port of call for the Titanic before it met its end. The tragic voyages of the Titanic and the Lusitania are both remembered here. One of the highlights of the visit is that you get a ticket in the name of a real person who traveled through here. You can follow the exhibits and read about your person.
Fortunately, Nellie Cashman who’s name I got survived the ill-fated sinking of the Titantic and made it to the United States. She became an entrepreneur and a mining enthusiast ultimately owning mines and being one of a handful of women inducted to the mining hall of fame. It was a lively discussion on the way back to Cork as the group compared notes about their person. What a wonderful way to get involved with the exhibit.
After leaving the Cobh Heritage center we had time to wander to the boardwalk and the colorful main street.
On the boardwalk I saw a couple dressed in period costume and a group of cameramen. Either a TV show or movie filming in progress. I found a seat near a food truck selling snacks and got myself an ice cream which I enjoyed as much as the chat with an Australian woman traveling solo in Ireland in search of her Irish ancestors.
On the route from Cork to Cobh there are small fishing villages and colorful boats but what I found the most intriguing is this tower that has been lovingly restored and now serves as a home for someone. What a wonderful idea to live in a place of history right on the beach.
The English Market sells locally produced foods including fresh fish, meats, fruit, vegetables, eggs, artisan cheeses and breads. Food stalls are also sometimes erected on city streets for visitors to sample, taste and buy. I would have loved to explore more of what Cork has to offer but a short evening just wasn’t enough. Another destination for my next trip to Ireland.
After an all too short a stop and fortified by a full Irish breakfast we stopped for an introduction to the Irish national sport of Hurling in Kilkenny. A quick introduction in a smelly locker room and we were on the field for a practical taste.
Apparently in this part of the country, they start learning from baby hood and in fact the most popular christening gift is a hurling stick sized for babies. I debated getting one for my grandchild but then decided that perhaps it might be too dangerous and toy.
After our hurling lesson we got into the town for a lunch stop and a bit of wander. We parked close to this local parish church, with it’s interesting looking front garden.
Shortly after we began the wander, the threatening sky opened up and we were treated to a rain shower. I found shelter in this pub and finally got to enjoy a pub lunch. I skipped the pint and drank a coca cola instead but definitely enjoyed my fish and chips.
Kilkenny Castle originally built in 1260 was destroyed in the many wars and successions that followed. In 1930 the family that owned the castle turned it over to the people of Kilkenny whereupon the castle was completely restored and now serves as a major tourist attraction in the area.
Every Irish town has a main street like this that is full of pubs, restaurants and shops. It is fun to wander down the street to get a feel for the town and wonder at the similarities and marvel at the differences.
Each county has its own colors and flags and it’s fun as you travel to see this reflected in the flags that fly over businesses and the colors of doors etc.
Dublin our final stop on our Irish tour. No, we didn’t go straight to the Guinnes Storehouse though I’m sure a lot of folks in our group would have been happy to.
As the capital and largest city in the country, Dublin is a lot more than the Guinness factory experience, so we’ll take our time exploring the city and seeing it through wandering Veena’s eyes next week.